January to June 2012 - Panama, Argentina, South Africa, Italy, Corseca

Birthday Surprise

2012-01-23T09:29:00.001-08:00

A young woman walks into the mexican restaurant unaware her friends have arranged a surprise birthday party. Tears well up in her eyes as people start to sing happy birthday and proudly place a colorful sombrero on her head. The Mariachi band enters the restaurant and their music fills the room with joy. Tequila is brought to the table and the party begins!

Financial District, Panama City

2012-01-23T09:11:00.001-08:00

Since passing a tax law to attract multi-national companies it appears the economy in Panama is red hot. Financial skyscraper after skyscraper, of which some are absolutely empty, sirens, constant hammering, horns, traffic, corrupt cabbies and men in business suits surround us like a cloak. Progress is expensive, loud and smelly. In the midst of all this commotion, we stay in a beautiful home that provides quiet and space. A reminder of the what this neighborhood may have been.

WAIT - the lawn ornament, it's moving!

2012-01-23T08:11:00.001-08:00

Van City, Nanaimo, friends, family, great food, late night conversation and nostalgic music creates the perfect departure phase.

Our Winter Home

2011-11-26T21:35:00.001-08:00

We are getting excited and spending more and more time planning our trip. Air tickets are booked and we're looking for accommodation in the Panamanian jungle. It will be a very different transition from the cool temperatures and darkness we currently have in Whitehorse. None-the-less what sun we do get is gorgeous!

Location:Whitehorse, Yukon

Sunset Bar Revisited

2011-01-30T04:45:00.001-08:00

Sunset at Golden Bhudda Beach
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Peno just opened a new establishment - the sunset Bar. Welcoming us with a huge smile we sit at one of the few tables, listen to some music, chat with maybe one or two other folks, and enjoy the sunset against the magnificent backdrop of the Andaman Sea.

Oriental Pied Hornbill

2011-01-30T04:44:00.001-08:00

Horn Bill at Golden Bhudda Beach
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Life is magical when you can sip on a beer, read a book, listen to the waves, and bird watch all at the same time. The Oriental Pied Hornbill lived in the trees around our place and often we had a chance to get a very good look at this spectacular bird. Eating fruit and insects these birds mate for life and an absolute wonder to watch.

Bar and Grill

2011-01-30T04:42:00.001-08:00

Mr Chuoi
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Mr. Chuoi

Everyone knows Mr. Chuoi pronounced like "Chewy". He is a great cook, owns a bar/restaurant, has accommodation for those who want it and is one of the few people on the island who survived the 2004 Tsunami on December 26th Mr. Chuoi said he had read about tsunami’s and when he heard what sounded like many helicopters and trees crashing he knew he had to try and reach a higher point - the tallest tree in his immediate area. Clinging on for his life for what must have felt like an eternity, his heart racing, somehow he managed to survive. He has rebuilt his business, is super friendly, and doesn't mind taking you out for an island excursion on his motorbike.

Koh Phra Thong Island

2011-01-30T04:34:00.001-08:00

Miles and Miles of Golden Bhudda

Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Koh Phra Thong is an exceptionally gorgeous island in the Andaman Sea with miles and miles of pristine white sand beaches, a plethora of birds, insects and jungle plants including large areas of savannah on parts of the island. Local people in the villages make shrimp paste, fish and harvest cashew tress. Golden Buddha Beach resort is an eco resort that practices low impact tourism on the island and provides extra employment. This was an extremely relaxing place to spend a bit of time relaxing, reading, eating great food, and listening to the pound of the waves and the song of the cicadas.

Coral Cave

2011-01-30T04:32:00.001-08:00

Cave Clam
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The lake created an opportunity to explore new areas and exceptional cave discoveries were made. To reach the Coral Cave we parked our longboat, hiked over a small pass, arrived at another lake that we crossed by bamboo boat. Coral Cave gets its name by the uniquely and beautifully formed stalagmites growing up from the ground and stalactites reaching down from the ceiling which appear exactly like sea coral.

Floating Raft Cabins

2011-01-30T04:29:00.001-08:00

Resort
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

There are about 13 different floating stations on Cheow Lake. All of the tourist accommodations, washrooms, restaurants, kitchens and staff quarters are floating connected by boardwalks. It is a great concept and fun too.

Cheow Lake

2011-01-30T02:46:00.001-08:00

Reservoir Dogs
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Imagine building a hydro dam inside a National Park flooding pristine jungle habitat and then marketing it as a tourist destination. Cheow Lake is 100 meters deep set inside massive limestone mountains. It is true that the man made islands are eerily beautiful but dodging the giant dead trees sticking out of the water is rather unsettling. It is hard not to think about the irreversible destruction below.

Jungle Night Walk

2011-01-30T02:16:00.001-08:00

Sleeping Bird
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We spent 3 hours with our guide Adam exploring one of the parks hiking trails by night. It was a great evening. We saw spiders, poisonous caterpillars, frogs, mouse deer, shedding cicadas, a civet cat, a flying fox bat and a sleeping flycatcher.

Khao Sok National Park – Thailand

2011-01-30T02:12:00.001-08:00

Reservoir
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Covering an area of over 738 square Km, Khao Sok Park combined with two wildlife sanctuaries creates one of the largest continuous nature preserves on the Thai peninsula. It is puzzling to me though how a flooded lake, due to a hydro dam, which flooded an area of 165 square Km in the park, can be considered a sanctuary.

Time of Change

2011-01-30T02:10:00.001-08:00

Mekong Low Water

Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Vientiane, and Laos in general, is going through a time of great change as China invests heavily into hydro development. Many rivers including the Mekong will be dammed as Laos strives to create a better standard of living for its people. As I ride my bike through the dusty streets, where the sky always seems to be in a haze, and the smell of sewage lingers in the air, I wonder whom, how, what will ultimately benefit.

Sunset Bar

2011-01-30T02:06:00.001-08:00

Laos Friends
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

It’s Julie’s birthday and we have a plan – at 5:00 PM we are to meet at the Sunset Bar to watch the sunset over the Mekong River before the famous establishment is demolished to make way for riverfront development. We all arrived at different times and every available chair was taken by 5:30 PM. The atmosphere was full of great energy, chatter, laughter and also sadness. Half of the building has already been taken down and the interior furnishings and décor are being sold to those who want them for the memories.

To Market to Market

2011-01-29T09:13:00.001-08:00

Noi Buying Desert
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Have you ever gone to a foreign market wishing you were brave enough to try food in which you had no idea what it was? Well, on this day, with 7 Yukoners in tow, Noi took us on a dessert-shopping extravaganza. “Try this,” she would say with the biggest brightest smile. Before long we had enough variety of delectable treats that only in our wildest dreams did we actually think we would sit down to a dinner of dessert.

Life with the Robinson-Boivin Family

2011-01-29T09:10:00.001-08:00

Julie and John
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Vientiane has an outward character all of its own. But what made this a truly remarkable experience was living with John, Julie, Cole, Jane, and their friend Megan – all of whom are from Whitehorse – in John’s brother and his wife’s home just outside the city. John and Julies sister-in-law is from Laos and through her family and friends we were all truly welcomed.

Let me see your glasses

2011-01-29T09:04:00.001-08:00

Elder Bhudda with Nicks Glasses
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Every day at 4:00 AM and 4:00 PM monks pound on giant drums and clang on gamelans. It feels like the monks from each temple are talking to each other through the powerful sound of percussion. While waiting for the young monks to arrive at the drum shelter an elder monk approached us. Pointing at my face and nodding with a smile it was explained the elder wanted to try on my glasses. Carefully he put them on glancing this way and that way and then politely hands them back to me. Then, directly looking at Nick he points to his glasses. Once again he carefully places the glasses on his face and immediately smiles – He can see! As luck or karma would have it, Nick had two pairs of the exact same reading glasses. The decision was easy – as we left the temple grounds and looked back over our shoulder we saw a very happy man.

Cheers to your health!

2011-01-29T09:02:00.001-08:00

Snakes and Reptiles
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Is this a tourist trap or do the local people really believe in the powers of highly toxic animals? This jar is filled with snakes, lizards, centipedes and millipedes. It’s good for your health the vendor preaches with a smile – go ahead – drink a little bit…drink, drink!

Darn, she’s not going my way!

2011-01-29T09:00:00.001-08:00

Bicycle Bridge
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This particular bridge over the Nam Klan River is only open to pedestrians, bicycles and motorcycles. A steady stream of traffic flows in both directions making it a rather interesting bike ride to get across. This young man is a tad too late catching the eye of the young woman heading into town – DARN.

Eateries

2011-01-29T08:59:00.001-08:00

Cozy Restaurant
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The decision of where to eat every day is pretty simple in Luang Prabang because of the number of very good restaurants, bistros and bars. This cozy place is especially relaxing – set in the tress on the riverbank a cool breeze blows through the colorful open spaces encouraging lounging, sleeping, playing board games and eating great food.

Ballet or Folklore?

2011-01-29T08:57:00.001-08:00

Sida
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

I find it interesting that the group of performers we saw in the Grand Palace Theatre is called the Laos National Ballet. The dance appeared traditional, the repetitive haunting rhythms of the music haunting, and the costumes and masks transforming the traditional story called “The Golden Deer and the Abduction of Sida” into a beautiful stage play. Story telling at its finest!

Luang Prabang – French Colonization

2011-01-29T08:55:00.001-08:00

French Doors
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

In 1887 Chinese rebels known as “The Black Flag Army” devastated the kingdom of Luang Prabang destroying and looting every monastery in the city. During this time the King decided to accept protection from France. The French allowed the kingdom to retain its monarchy and proceeded to import Vietnamese workers to build offices and villas that resulted in a very distinctive colonial atmosphere. The French continue to travel here by the droves even though Laos is a communist country lead by the Lao Peoples Revolutionary Party. The city offers charm, regal buildings, lush green walkways, great foo and excellent wine.

Mekong River Villages

2011-01-11T18:07:00.001-08:00

Remote Mekong Village
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Basic dwellings that are grey and brown against the vibrant green of the jungle. Dirt pathways weave up and down the riverbank from and to various households. I think about the next comfortable guesthouse we have arranged to stay in and wonder how on earth do these people manage to live in the jungle with so little – how humbling and oh so much there is to learn.

How Beautiful!

2011-01-11T18:02:00.001-08:00

Interesting Clothing
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The second day of our river journey was long - eight hours in the wind and cool damp air. A pregnant woman lies down near the front of the boat on the floor. I cover her with a blanket from my pack. Hours pass by before our long boat slows down to stop along a sandbar. I look up and see the most striking woman dressed in a beautiful traditional outfit. Her stature and striking presence is so inspiring.

Mekong Children

2011-01-11T18:00:00.001-08:00

Mekong Kids
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

As we pass villages en-route to Luang Prabang we see many children. Some have bright wide smiles, some are curious and others just watch our boat go by without really noticing we are there.

River Highway

2011-01-11T17:51:00.001-08:00

Boat Crew
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The Mekong is a major transportation route into the interior of Laos. Huge freighter boats, long boats of every description, dug out canoes work their way up and down the river from one village to the next.

Mekong Fisherman

2011-01-11T17:49:00.001-08:00

Throw Net
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The Mekong sustains hundreds of villages and thousands of people along its banks. Crops are grown along the shoreline, fisherman set nets from rocky points, people pan for gold, others bath and wash laundry. Mile after mile we witness how the Laos people are dependent on the mighty Mekong River.

Slow boat to Pak Beng

2011-01-11T17:47:00.001-08:00

Slow Boats
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We buy our ticket at the dock for the 10:00 AM departure to Pak Beng. The seating on the long boat is first come first serve – the earlier you get on the boat the more likely you will find a seat. 12:00 noon approaches and the last passenger boards. We are packed on the boat like a can of sardines and we are only two hours behind schedule for our 7 hour journey!

Huay Xai (Hoksay) Laos

2011-01-11T17:43:00.001-08:00

Huay Xai along Mekong
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The mighty Mekong River divides Thailand and Laos. We leave Chiang Khong in Thailand and cross the river to Laos. Hoksay has one long street with guesthouses, a few restaurants, and people trying to sell overpriced tickets for the long boat to Luang Prabang. Our first cash withdraw is 700,000.00 Kip. How much is that you ask? Ummmmmm about $88.00 dollars!

Wat Rong Khun (White Wat)

2011-01-11T17:39:00.001-08:00

White Temple
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The construction of this magnificent temple started in 1997. The entire outside is white washed with inlayed clear-mirrored chips. The striking difference from this temple to others we have see is how the architect and artist depicts the worlds modern struggles along with ancient Buddha drawings. Spiderman, bombs, missiles, spaceships, war, electronic devices are all carefully depicted in the wall murals.

Chiang Doa Town

2011-01-11T17:35:00.001-08:00

Rural Chiang Dao
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Nestled in the valley far below Doi Luang Chiang Dao Mountain is the town of Chiang Doa. It is surrounded by terraced fields, jungle, and to the south a river. We find it easily accessible by bicycle and the street market provided an amazing display of absolutely delicious local food. YUP – we definitely like the place – ALLOTT!

Karen Village Rice Fields

2011-01-11T17:32:00.001-08:00

Rice Field
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We follow the river valley through beautiful rice fields. The backdrop is stunning against the rich green jungle and the towering mountains. A very special place indeed!

Simple Accomodation

2011-01-11T17:29:00.001-08:00

Karen Village Accomodation
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We continue to hike up steep hillsides and down slippery rocky paths. By the end of the day we arrive in another Karen Village. It is located in an absolutely stunning valley. Tired and sore we are taken to our accommodation by the river. It is basically a platform with three bamboo walls. The front is open to the river. We sleep on a thin pad on a bamboo floor with a few blankets to cover ourselves. I ask our guide “are there many snakes here” he smiles broadly and says “oh yes, many – they are good to eat! Great I think and wonder if one will join us in our shelter tonight……..

Shaman

2011-01-11T17:26:00.001-08:00

Shaman of Karen Village
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We visit the home of the village shaman and he invites us to sit down for tea and share fruit that is both sweet and sour. He crouches down in front of me and takes my hand. He rubs my fingers, adjusts my wrist and blows on my arm. Once he feels he has done what is needed he ties a colorful woven bracelet onto my wrist.

Karen Village – Pig Feast Preparation

2011-01-11T17:24:00.001-08:00

Karen Village Feast Preparation
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Women who are beautifully dressed butcher a pig in preparation for a New Year’s feast. Children play, tables are prepared and men gather to play a game with hand made bows and arrows.

Lisu Village – New Years House Blessing

2011-01-11T17:22:00.001-08:00

New Years Blessing Lisu Village
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Bang! Bang! Fireworks explode into the evening sky for hours from various locations in the jungle village. We are told on this night people from the Lisu village gather to dance, play music, and bring good luck to each house for the New Year. Sure enough, around 11:00 PM, we are aroused from our restless sleep. Through the cracks of our bamboo shelter I can see people dancing around a light to the music of a single musician playing a flute like instrument. We venture out and before I can tie my shoe a woman’s hand reaches out and pulls me into the circle. We dance, drink spirits, and laugh together until it is time for the group to leave for the next house.

The Waterfalls

2011-01-11T16:31:00.001-08:00

Waterfall
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Quietly we trek through the jungle following a stream. The trail becomes more and more challenging as we climb over rocks and boulders to reach the waterfall. Even though I found the hike somewhat challenging, and fell into the stream, it was a very beautiful spot.

The Cave

2011-01-11T16:29:00.001-08:00

Cave Entrance
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Our guide provides us with two white hard hats and with our trusty headlamps we head into the entrance of the pitch-black expanse of cavernous chambers deep in the mountain. It feels cool, drafty; insects and spiders scurry about dodging any beam of light. We creep along the floor of the cave and go down steeper areas by makeshift bamboo ladders. Other than our hard hats – no safety regulations here!

Nancy asking for directions

2011-01-11T16:26:00.001-08:00

Lisu Village
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

After eating the absolute best banana pineapple crepe breakfast we organize our gear to start the first day of our trek. Climbing into the back of a truck we drive into the park and up Doi Luang Chiang Doa Mountain for about 10 miles. We are dropped off on the side of the road and told to follow the trail to the first village and ask for Mr. Chai. As we arrive in the first village and say “Mr. Chai – Mr. Chai” people politely smile and point us through the village and out the other side. In the distance we see the next village and head towards it along the path. As we approach a woman carrying a large basket we ask again “Mr. Chai”. She hand signals us to follow her and takes us to a small hut and points for us to sit down. This is where we wait until our guide shows up. The funny thing is no one knows who Mr. Chai is.

Chiang Mai Impressions

2011-01-01T20:35:00.001-08:00

Spires
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Ancient, slow paced, green, relaxing, beautiful, massages, international gateway to the mountains. Loved it!.

New Years Eve Chiang Mai

2011-01-01T20:31:00.001-08:00

Fireworks 2010 Chiang Mai
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The main artery that leads to the old city is blocked from traffic and filled with craft venders and pedestrians. At the end of the street, on a giant stage with screens overhead, an Asian pop band entertains the masses as girls scream out encouragement. Following yet another street along a canal Nick asks if we are in a good spot to see the fireworks? As the clock strikes midnight the night sky erupts into colorful light and the display is directly over our heads – yes – we are in the perfect spot!

Chiang Mai Lanterns

2011-01-01T20:28:00.001-08:00

Releasing Lanterns
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We emerge from our guesthouse around 10:00 PM and find the night sky filled with yellow and orange glowing light. I mention to Nick the stars look rather odd this evening – could it be the haze overhead – what is it? LANTERNS. Thousands of beautiful lit lanterns floating to endless heights in the dark sky lighting a path for New Years.

MBK

2011-01-01T20:25:00.001-08:00

Watching the watched
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

I have no idea what the MBK stands for other in my mind giant shopping center. This is only one of several giant malls in Siam Square district. Escalators move people in continuous orchestrated patterns to maximize the shopping experience. Giant cement walkways in the sky connect one shopping complex to another. My mission – find needle and thread to fix my pants – it took a bit of sleuthing and after considerable time we found a limited selection – go figure!

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra

2011-01-01T20:21:00.001-08:00

Yaksha
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

In one giant city block the magnificent buildings of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra are enclosed in huge stonewalls. Two giant sentinels, said to be brothers, guard the doorway of the Thai monarchs palace residence. The king spends time at the palace only on special ceremonial occasions. The beautiful and opulent Wat Phra houses the famous emerald Buddha that once resided in Chiang Mai.

Giant Reclining Buddha

2011-01-01T20:14:00.001-08:00

Sleeping Face
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Golden – Shimmering – Homage – Mother of Pearl inlay – Auspicious, Giant statue of magnificence! Lying 45 meters long by 15 meters high, reclining Buddha is meant to illustrate the passing of Buddha from life into death – the next world.

Bangkok - China Town

2011-01-01T20:10:00.001-08:00

Street Shopping in China Town
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

How much is too much? How many is too many? We throw ourselves into the reality of Siam Square – OH MY GOD! Sensory overload, human overload – streams of people shuffling up and down side streets filled beyond capacity. Can that be someone cooking on hot coals amidst this chaos? How do we miss not getting burned, having our toes run over by cars and motorcycles? When will it get quiet – maybe in our room, which looks onto rubble, graffiti, and street vendors? Still, in spite all of this – we find kindness.

Sunset Puerto Escondido

2010-12-01T19:36:00.001-08:00

Puerto Escondido
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This is an absolutely wonderful and relaxing way to end a great day in Puerto Escondido.

Finding Nancy…

2010-12-01T19:34:00.001-08:00

Can you find Nancy
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

How long did it take you to pick Nancy out of the crowd?

Puerto Escondido

2010-12-01T19:32:00.001-08:00

Puerto Escondido - Sunday Fun
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We arrived in Puerto Escondido during a fishing derby and beauty pageant. The beach was jam packed with families having an absolutely fabulous Sunday afternoon playing on the beach.

Mazunte Beach

2010-12-01T19:31:00.001-08:00

Mazunte - Nancy
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Mazunte is a lovely village on the pacific shores of Oaxaca. The beaches are stunningly beautiful.

Zipolite

2010-12-01T19:26:00.001-08:00

Beach Bums
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Is that a bear naked bum!

Zapotec Shaman

2010-12-01T19:18:00.001-08:00

Maria Sabina - Healer
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Mushrooms, Marijuana, all for the spiritual quest…….. The jungle holds many mind and body journeys. Many flock from the west for answers including many famous musicians. Hmmm, what were they looking for?

Cable Bridge

2010-12-01T19:16:00.001-08:00

Boys on Cable Bridge in Mtns
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The boys playing on this cable bridge are having so much fun swimming, teasing, and hanging around. At one time this cable bridge was the only way the people had to cross the river – now there is a bridge.

Just Beach

2010-12-01T19:10:00.001-08:00

Huatulco
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Hot, nesting turtles, really hot, long, long stretches of beach…

Huatulco – Agua Azul

2010-12-01T19:08:00.001-08:00

Aqua Azul - Great B&B
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We reached Huatulco after an 8-hour bus ride through the mountains from Oaxaca City. Our retreat was Agua Azul, owned and operated by Richard and Brooke Gazer. They offer their home as a B&B but really it is a truly peaceful sanctuary that is beautiful and incredibly relaxing. Perfect in every way I’d say…

Teotitlan Del Valley

2010-12-01T18:59:00.001-08:00

Naturally dyed yarn
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

One day I strolled into a small shop, off a street in Oaxaca city, and met Janet Chavez. She is a very proud and very talented weaver in her own right from the village of Teotitlan. Speaking with such passion, respect and admiration of her father and grandfathers work, Janet showed me her families weaving and invited us to her studio. The hand dyed wool created from plant fiber to cochineal cactus parasite is absolutely beautiful.

El Tule

2010-12-01T18:55:00.001-08:00

Tule - Cypress Tree
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This Cypress tree is said to be 2,000 years old and towers 15 stories above the village of Santa Maria del Tule.

Yagul – Archaeological Site

2010-12-01T18:51:00.001-08:00

Maise
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Due to the incomplete excavation of this site it has remained simple in its exposure but dramatic and completely breathtaking in its presence.

Revolutionaries!

2010-12-01T18:47:00.001-08:00

Revolution - November 22
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

November 22 is the anniversary of the Mexican revolution. The Museo de la Culturas de Oaxaca has an outstanding black and white photo exhibition depicting the peoples struggle.

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

2010-12-01T18:43:00.001-08:00

Decorated Skull in Jade from Monte Alban
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Treasure from Monte Alban tomb number 7 – Why was it so important to adorn this skull with Jade? Who was this person?! WOW!!!

Monte Alban – The Hidden City

2010-12-01T18:35:00.000-08:00

As described by Bruce Whipperman, author for the Moon Handbook Oaxaca, “Monte Alban ranks among Mesoamerica’s most regally spectacular ruined cities. Known in ancient times by its Zapotec name, Danni Diapaa. This great city atop the hill reigned for at least 1,200 years. The buildings were finished with sloping staircases, corniced walls, carvings, ball courts and hieroglyphs – inscribe stelae depicting gods, kings, and heroic scenes of battle.”

Santa Maria Atzampa – Pottery Village

2010-12-01T18:28:00.001-08:00

Pottery
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Families from this wee village make cooking pots, bowls, platters, light and garden decorations on their pottery wheel. I could not resist buying a cooking dish!

Stone Fretwork

2010-11-18T17:27:00.001-08:00

Fretwork on Mitla Ruin
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This is one example of the amazing stone fretwork at the Metla archaeological site.

Mitla

2010-11-18T17:25:00.001-08:00

Mitla Ruins
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The architecture of ancient Mitla is the result of the Mixtec people, who came form central Mexico, interacting with the local Zapotecs, creating a unique and unusual style of temples in this area.

Poco Benito

2010-11-18T17:22:00.001-08:00

Halloween!
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

It is always impressive to see such beauty in an area as hot and dry as this in the Mexican Oaxacan winter.

Tranquility

2010-11-18T17:11:00.001-08:00

Dead Tree & Dog in Water
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

How is it we are the only touristo here right now – magnifico!

Limestone Towers

2010-11-18T17:09:00.001-08:00

Hierve El Agua Limestone Waterfall
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Twisting our way up the side of a mountain, on a very narrow and rough road, of which parts are washed away by the heavy rains earlier this year, we make our way to the magnificent Hierve El Agua. Mineral springs that ooze out of the mountainside have created giant cascades of mineralized limestone. Absolutely stunning!

We don’t need no stinking badges!

2010-11-18T17:07:00.001-08:00

The holy Zempoaltepetl Mountain, whose spreading peak reaches 2,700 meters, is a treasure of the Sierra Madre and the Mixtec people.

Cooking with Nora

2010-11-13T18:20:00.001-08:00

Fresh Ingredients
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

After shopping for all the raw ingredients at our local merced, Nora showed us how to create Tamalitos de Pina, Chile Rellenos, Frijoles con Hierba de conejo, Consume de Hierba Santa, Salsa de Miltomate con gusanitos de Maguey, Guacamole de Molcajete and Aqua de Pepino. Somehow Nora thinks we are going to be just fine re-creating this at home……ummmm I am still wondering how we are going to get the dried corn husks, squash blossoms and the 12 worms from the maguey plant in Whitehorse!

Ocotlan

2010-11-13T18:16:00.001-08:00

Rudolfo Morales Painting
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This very pretty little village has a wonderful market and many artisans who live in and around the surrounding area. An interesting little stop was to visit the Aguilar sisters who create figures of every description out of clay. A celebrated artist Rudolfo Morales dedicated his life and fortune to improve his hometown. His foundation has been used to restore churches, public buildings, reforestation and education.

Los Arquitos and San Felipe Aqua

2010-11-13T18:00:00.001-08:00

Aqua Duct Arches Los Arguitos
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

San Felipe Aqua is directly north of Oaxaca City and is at the base of the mountain Cerro San Felipe. It is here, centuries ago, natural springs were tapped into to provide water through aqua ducts to the city of Oaxaca. The ancient 18th century string of stone duct arches known as Los Arguitos are integrated into the streets and buildings of lives of locals who live within them. Through the gateway on one arch is an outdoor movie theatre!

Markets, Markets and more Markets

2010-11-13T17:57:00.001-08:00

Fresh farm chicken
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Red, green, yellow, brown, black, white, orange – swishes of color and movement from every direction. The market itself is a complex labyrinth of walkways through endless vendors selling everything from crickets, worms, beans, fresh and dried peppers, fresh vegetables, herbs, juice, bread, cheese, meat and clothing. All locally produced. Truly a visual extravaganza!

Settling in Oaxaca City

2010-11-13T17:49:00.001-08:00

Zocalo
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Living in a small apartment in the Jalatlaco district of Oaxaca City is proving to be a perfect way to immerse us into the local culture. We have time to orient ourselves, explore the main zocalo, visit markets, and get lost in the streets and rest our weary beings.

Shenanigans!

2010-11-10T20:46:00.001-08:00

The gang
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Oysters, copious amounts of white and red wine, more oysters, seafood, laughter and a late night of silliness - what can be more fun than great friends in Van City.

Beautiful Beautiful Fish

2009-03-07T09:18:00.001-08:00

Imagine the colors
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Snorkling is a marvelous way to get a glimpse of what is happening beneath the surface of the sea. Coral, fish, turtles and seaweed create a surreal setting that is humbling.

For now, our journey is done and it is time to reflect on the experiences over the past few months. Thank you to those who checked in on our blog from time to time - it is always wonderful to read a message from home.

Island Hopping

2009-02-24T23:00:00.001-08:00

Big Lagoon
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The Bacuit Archipelago has a spectacular karst landscape with coral, turquoise water and white sand beaches. Island hopping, snorkeling and lagoon exploring is supreme and the lunch of grilled fish on the beach with rice, cucumber salad and fruit for desert was well…YUM!

Seaweed Farming

2009-02-24T22:57:00.001-08:00

Seaweeds
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The people from the village earn their money by mariculture of seaweed for 25 pesos per kilo. Life is simple and commerce almost non-existent; but the people are very caring, honest, warm and generous.

Back to Basics

2009-02-24T22:53:00.001-08:00

Nippa Hut
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Every day we give our host family money and they provide us with transportation, incredible meals cooked over a coconut fire, videoke by generator and a coconut bonfire. Nick and I chuckle; it only took us one day to settle into our hut, acquire a dog, and have14-year-old Adrian move in with us. INSTANT FAMILY!

Life on Darocaton Island

2009-02-24T22:48:00.001-08:00

Darocaton Sunrise
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Thanks to Lolita, we are able to use her nippa hut and stay on Darocaton Island for 5 days. We lived alongside Dading, Naring and their grandson Adrian who are the caretakers of the beach. There is also a small traditional village. Life is simple and the climate is super hot. In the morning we clean the beach, do laundry, fill water buckets, snorkel and eat breakfast. Within hours the heat is so intense we are forced to stay inside our nippa hut until 3 or 4 in the afternoon. We long to be on the beach but it is not possible – alas we are prisoners of our own desire and fantasy.

Palawan's Dempster

2009-02-24T22:45:00.001-08:00

Palawan North
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

With the groceries bought and the truck packed we are on the road by 6:00 AM to Dipnay. Dipnay is not marked on our road map but we are assured that once we get to El Nido we will have no problem finding the place by asking the locals. The gravel road to the north of Palawan reminded us of the Dempster highway. We drove over sharp stones, a myriad of potholes and ultimately had a flat tire. Sure enough after 11 hours we found our destination.

Malaria protects indigenous people and the environment

2009-02-22T04:42:00.001-08:00

Tribute To An Artist
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Mount Maruyog is the tallest mountain on Palawan Island and is home to a very primitive tribe of indigenous people. They depend on the jungle for their survival and cultural independence. We were told malaria is currently protecting the forest and the people from logging, mining and development. Apparently there is a very deadly form of the disease in which the parasite attacks the brain. Even though rare, people cannot survive and die a retched death within days. Other malaria the indigenous people are resistant to is so prevalent it is impossible for foreigners to enter the area without getting very sick.

Beautiful Gardens

2009-02-22T04:39:00.001-08:00

Fresh Rain
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Brooks Point turned out to be a great spot to spend a few days. This time resort did mean resort – we had deluxe digs with air conditioning, a fabulous garden, pool, fantasy playground and a magnificent view of Mount Maruyog. All for twenty-five dollars! Dinner was pre-ordered, made from scratch and served on a tiered balcony. Now, this is a honeymoon paradise!

Who is that trip trapping over my bridge?

2009-02-22T04:38:00.001-08:00

No Place Like Home
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Believe it or not we decided to stay another night at our honeymoon paradise. Despite the accommodation being sub standard the food was excellent, the staff very sweet and we had the opportunity to travel upriver with an elderly man who lived with his family under a bridge. The tricky part was finding him, but sure enough in a tiny hut snuggly built under and attached to the bridge, we found our boatman. It was a real treat to travel upriver to beautiful waterfalls and then back down and all the way out to the sea.

Quezon Resort

2009-02-22T04:34:00.001-08:00

Quezon Resort
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

After popping a few malaria pills we jump into our rented truck and head South. First stop, Quezon. Our LP guide directs to a “resort” that is supposed to be a notch above other rental accommodations in the area. We are the only guests, the cottage has bedbugs, and the beach is currently filled in with monsoon mud. Oh yeah, there are anacondas, cobras, malaria and the dengue. A young man directs us to our beach hut and casually says with a big bright smile: “Yes miss, sometimes there is malaria and people get sick, sometimes people get bit by cobras and people die – this is a honeymoon paradise!

Hello PP

2009-02-22T04:31:00.001-08:00

Danny
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Yippee – Yahoo - Puerto in so many ways is how we remembered it from 2000. This time though, we have the privilege of staying at Lolita and Bob’s house in San Jose with her brother Danny and his family. They are the most gracious hosts. We are spoiled beyond our dreams with their superior generosity and kindness.

Manila

2009-02-22T04:28:00.001-08:00

Manila
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

It is early morning and the warm moist heat in Manila feels most welcome. First priority – head to hotel in Makita in the business district and sleep. Makita has Singapore familiarity with a distinct Filipino twist.

Chitwin National Park

2009-02-08T23:13:00.001-08:00

Love Rhino
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

I cannot tell you why I have always wanted to ride an elephant – but I can say it is the absolute best way to explore the jungle. These giant marvels walk ever so quietly, carefully padding in silence through the bush. Our last stop in Nepal was Chitwin National Park. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site and covers an area of 932 square KM. It is home to the endangered one horned rhino, royal Bengal tiger, marsh mugger crocodile and the charial. It has been a park since 1973 and before the war endangered populations were actually increasing. Sadly since the Maoist rebellion poachers have reduced the numbers of rhinos and tigers dramatically to sell on the black market. We heard locals speak of the army killing these animals for money to support their cause. It is questionable if any of these species can survive. To my horror, reported in the paper on our day of departure was a graphic photo of a rhino that had its horn hacked off its face. This animal was trying to relieve its pain by submersing its head in the river. Authorities are going to try and save it but the chances are very slim. Struggle for political stability, social justice, humane living standards and proper infrastructure is monumental. Peace is fragile. I don’t know what the future holds for Nepal but I do have hope……..

Lumbini Nepal

2009-02-08T23:10:00.001-08:00

Sunset
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Situated on the Great Plains just north of the Indian border is Lumbini, the birthplace of Siddhartha in 563, the birth of Buddhism and one of the most important religious sites in the world.

Tansen Nepal

2009-02-08T23:07:00.001-08:00

Tansen Ridge Walk
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Perched high up on the mountainside this pretty little town and the surrounding area is loaded with charm and beauty. We hiked a hilltop ridge for 13 kilometers through traditional villages that were connected by trails, which eventually took us back to the highway.

Pokhara Nepal

2009-02-08T22:56:00.001-08:00

Pokhara Nepal
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Like Kathmandu, Pokhara is much larger and more chaotic than it was the first time we visited 24 years ago. Poking our way through streets filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. Our memory is blurred. Finding familiarity along the lakeshore we hiked south to the dam and crossed over to the other side following a trail through villages, rice fields and eventually up the mountainside to the Peace Pagoda. The view of the Himalayas and the valleys from here is staggering!

Tranquil Gorkha

2009-01-28T23:28:00.001-08:00

Tranquil Gorkha
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Prior to last years election Gorkha was a major target for Maoists attacks. Civilians were under constant curfew while rebel forces fought in the surrounding mountainous jungle. Today, this beautiful place is at peace and the people look forward to renewed tourism.

Peaceful Bandipur

2009-01-28T23:25:00.001-08:00

Funeral March
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Rural Nepal is precious. Immediately life slows down and people take the time to greet “namaste” to each other. From our tiny balcony we watch the village people go about their daily lives including witnessing a family parade a deceased loved one through the streets while two men danced, trumpeters played, and children banged symbols and drums.

Beautiful Bhaktapur

2009-01-28T23:22:00.001-08:00

Temple in Bhaktapur
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Traffic free, culturally rich with master wood carvers and potters, cobblestone streets, ancient ways blend with modernization.

Is that billowing dense black smoke ahead?

2009-01-28T23:18:00.001-08:00

Demonstration
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The idea of hiring a rickshaw is fun so taking one to the central bus station seemed like a great idea. Our bicycle driver maneuvered through traffic with unbelievable ease. I would peer over the tire as we rattled along astonished we didn’t tangle up with any other motorist. We turned onto a major traffic artery and just ahead was a column of billowing dense black smoke. Motorized traffic ground to a halt. It became apparent very quickly a protest demonstration was underway and our driver decided to go right towards a mass of burning tires, military and a crowd of people. My inside voice screamed get me off of this thing and Nick took pictures exhaling WOW with each click of his camera. To my absolute amazement we drove through the middle without even a word of caution. Within minutes of leaving the demonstration area we arrived at the bus station.

Scavenging Monkeys

2009-01-24T22:13:00.001-08:00

Scavenging Monkeys
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The greatest and most impressive Buddhist temple in the Kathmandu valley is the Swayambhuath. It has withstood the test of time since the 13th century but I am truly at a loss to explain all the changes in just a ¼ century. It saddened me greatly en-route to the temple to walk through garbage laden streets, across a river whose sluggish waters are filled with gurgling black sludge and to see once beautiful monkeys scavenging through burning scrapes looking for food. The site itself, although holy, to me has lost its dignity.

Holy Man

2009-01-24T22:09:00.001-08:00

Holy Man
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This man worships Shiva, the cosmic dancer whose dance shook the cosmos and created the world. He lives at the Pashupatmath Temple.

Cremation

2009-01-24T22:08:00.001-08:00

Cremation
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The Pashupatmath Temple is situated along the very holy Bagmati River, which eventually empties into the Ganges in India. This sacred place is where the devout Hindu's are cremated. The wood is put in place, the shrouded body is placed on top and a fire is lit in the mouth of the deceased. The experience is overwhelming and powerful.

Ambassadors

2009-01-24T22:04:00.001-08:00

Ambassadors
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Phabhat, Hibu and Neeti are friends, recent graduates of high school and very inspiring. We met them in Dubar Square and ended up spending a few hours together. They were gracious hosts and true ambassadors of Nepal.

Infrastructure Woes – Hardship in Kathmandu

2009-01-24T22:02:00.001-08:00

Katmandu
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

It is 24 years since our last visit to Nepal and the changes in Kathmandu are immense. It was a kingdom ruled by a monarchy and now after 12 years of internal struggle Nepal is governed by the Maoists. Streets that used to be filled with people riding bicycles ringing little handlebar bells, cows meandering and farmers trekking in fresh produce from the valley is replaced with streets that are crowded beyond capacity with people in cars honking relentlessly, rickshaws and motorcycles. Air contaminants coat our bodies with black dust and the noise is continuous. The traffic lights don’t work and pedestrians try to walk amongst the vehicles – often only centimeters from the front tires. Vendors are selling fresh produce surrounded by giant piles of stinking rotting refuse. Compounding all of this is the limited power that is available. We are lucky to get 8 hours of energy per day. It was surreal walking in the streets the other evening with the city in darkness except for the dim glow of a few light bulbs powered by belching generators. From behind us chimed voices – Sir - sir – hashish sir – taxi- bracelet madam- biscuit – maybe tomorrow. The people recognize their struggle and dream for a better future.